Final days in Israel

I am sitting in the airport and writing the last blog for our family trip. Yesterday, we enjoyed the pool and grounds of Kibbutz Hagoshrim and then participated in different electives--horseback riding, jeep touring, and zip lining. I was pleased to be the official photographer for the zip lining and am happy to report that Rabbi Berg did in fact go down the zip line at Manara Cliff. 

We then prepared for our last Shabbat in Israel (for this trip). After a meal with literally 6 different soups and probably 30 different dishes and desserts, we agreed it will be quite a change to return to the US and not have so many options for breakfast and dinner--the food has been wonderful and there has probably been too much of it for most of us! We had our services outside and used it as an opportunity to reflect on the past 10 days. Between each prayer, we reviewed the events of a day in our trip and invited people to share thoughts. Our day in Yokneam garnered the most reactions--clearly making a personal connection here in Israel meant a lot. We heard from children and adults and are certain that this has been a life-changing/eye-opening/spiritually-meaningful experience for everyone. One of the most poignant things for our children was to be in Israel and not be a minority, compared to being a Jew in the United States. In Israel, our young people discovered friendships with one another and a sense of acceptance and belonging which happens here, where Judaism is the majority.

This morning was "kayaking" (rafting) down the Jordan River. Perhaps it would have been better earlier in the trip, because it was definitely a "team-building" activity with six people and two paddles per boat!

All that was left was a short trip to the Golan for those who did not need a lot of packing time, then a drive back to Tel Aviv for dinner and airport. Mazal tov to Isaac S. who lost a tooth during dinner (this is a good thing, in case you were worried). 

The hugs and kisses, emails and phone numbers, being exchanged tell us that this trip has fulfilled its goal of bringing our Temple members closer together. Somewhat familiar faces from Sunday mornings are now friends; everyone is bonded by this special experience. This group was outstanding and really felt a sense of community the whole time.

For me, this was my first Temple Israel trip, and I have loved seeing Israel through our participants' eyes. The questions, reflections, comments, and stories that we have shared have led me to think and grow as a person and a rabbi. The pride that I felt in watching our young people become b'nei mitzvah in Jerusalem and experience Israel was overwhelming--I pray that they, and all of us, pack a little of Israel in our suitcase (beyond the souvenirs). May each of us take some of this feeling of belonging and holiness back home to share with others.

If you are reading this and starting to think that you want to come experience Israel with your Temple family, start thinking now about our 2015 trip! Questions can go to Rabbi Rau, Rabbi Berg, or myself--we hope you will join us for what all of our 2013 families would say is the trip of a lifetime!

Shavua Tov, a good week for us all.

Rabbi Lapidus

Thursday, June 27

Three rabbis dance on a bar...yes, I recognize that you know the joke as walking into a bar. However, this is no joke and yes, there were three (sober) rabbis on a bar in Tiberias. But before I get to this part of the story, there are a few things that happened first in this epic day.

We began by leaving Tel Aviv and heading north to Alona Park. There, we watched a film which taught us about the Roman aqueducts which provided water to Caesarea and other towns. For the record, the film could not decide what time period to set its "Indiana Jones" character in and was weirdly entertaining as a result. With that fresh in our minds, we headed into the aqueduct for a water hike. Unlike Hezekiah's Tunnel, this water was deeper and less clear. Yet, we had a great time exploring our way through this cave.

After drying off, we boarded the bus for the fastest trip ever through Caesarea. At least this film made a little more sense...we saw the ruins very briefly and then returned to the bus to head to Yokneam.

Yokneam-Megiddo are the partnership cities for Atlanta and St. Louis through the Partnership 2000 program. What that means is that our Atlanta Jewish Federation donations, in part, go to support programs in this area. As such, we make it part of all of our trips (our adults visited hi-tech sites and had home hospitality for dinner, and our teens did programs and stayed with host families in the community). We arrived to an elementary school to waving flags and music. We were treated to a brief strings concert, then had a dance party. afterwards, adults spoke with the leaders of the school and community partnership while the kids joined their Israeli counterparts to do team-building exercises. I was shocked to see how quickly Facebook info was exchanged....particularly from the Israeli girls to our b'nei mitzvah boys. We continued to the youth center for lunch and a performance by an Ethiopian dance troupe (our federation funds some of the programs for Ethiopian immigrants). The dancing was amazing, as was the stories from the dance teacher and one of the mothers of the dancers. The dance teacher, as part of Operation Solomon, walked for 6 weeks as part of her journey to Israel. She spoke about trying to change who she was only to discover how connected she is to her Ethiopian roots as well as her Israeli identity. The dance performances concluded with a lesson in Ethiopian dance, which we were told was like Zumba. I wish I could say that we were graceful, but what we lacked in style we made up for with effort and enthusiasm.

The group continued to Tel Yokneam, an archeological site, for a quick program, and then we headed to the Galilee region. We took a boat ride on the kinneret, during which we did Israeli dancing. Then we went to Decks restaurant for a celebratory dinner. The food was quite amazing and clearly the woman running things has tremendous respect and affection for our Rabbi Berg as evidenced by the number of vegetarian dishes which kept coming our way. The b'nei mitzvah students were treated to a small display of fireworks and received personalized t-shirts and held sparklers. The woman running the show said that our b'nei mitzvah was like the twelve tribes of Israel. Then, we had a dance party.

As part of the festivities, we were strongly encouraged to lead the YMCA dance...and what we thought would be leading from the platform was actually leading from on top of the bar. Not our idea (the woman running the music suggested it), but I can now cross "dancing on a bar" off my bucket list. Rabbi Berg, Rabbi Rau, and myself did our best to entertain and lead the dancing. 

When you think about the moment celebrating our b'nei mitzvah and the joy and festivity of the night, as well as the nature and personality of these three rabbis, I think we would all agree it made perfect sense. And, while the 2015 trip should not count on a repeat performance, rest assured we will find another way to distinguish ourselves as The Temple.

The last song of the night before heading to our kibbutz was "We are Family." Truly all of us on this trip are family: we spent a lot of time together, we shared meals, we helped corral one another's kids, we celebrated the simcha of b'nei mitzvah together, we have developed new friendships, we have laughed and cried and questioned and discovered together. This is truly a spiritual experience, and we are honored to be a part of it.

Tomorrow we rest in the morning, then have electives before our last Shabbat in Israel. Hard to believe our trip is almost done!

Rabbi Lapidus

Celebration on the Sea

Tonight we went to the Kinneret (Sea of Galilee) for a boat ride and celebration. They made each of our 12 b'nei mitzvah princes and princesses of the sea. Then we danced...a lot!!

Spending time in Atlanta's sister city, Yokeneam

Games with the local school...

Dance recital and dance class with Ethiopian troupe...

Togas and the view from Tel Yokeneam...

Wednesday, June 26

Today was our Tel Aviv Museum Day--also known as "great until the kids crashed" day. We began at the Ayalon Institute, where we learned about the underground bullet factory which supported the fighters for Israel's independence. Everyone loved this experience, and we were all impressed by the ingenuity and perseverance of these heroes.

We continued with choices of the Palmach Museum and Museum of the Diaspora. Both are unique and special in their own ways and gave us plenty to think about. Everyone was quite tired by the end, and clearly two museums is plenty, if not more than enough, for the students!

After lunch, we took some rest/beach time and then continued with a special dinner on the beach. It was fun to take time to socialize and enjoy the sunset. We are continually amazed by how well everyone gets along, particularly the kids. Tomorrow is our longest day yet as we head to Caesaria, Yokneam (our partnership 2000 city), and the Galilee region. So, Laila Tov!

Rabbi Lapidus

Tuesday, June 25

This morning we said good bye to the Dead Sea region, heading first to Beit Guvrin for an archeological dig. Our families ventured into a cave and dug for various pottery items. This program earned an overwhelming two thumbs up from everyone, regardless of age. We then took our dusty selves to Tel Aviv, a bustling city, and enjoyed the markets and shops. A few rushed to the Mediterranean for a quick dip, and then families went to Cafe Kapish, a dinner served by waiters who are deaf followed by a show of actors who are deaf and blind. Some families took a night off. Elizabeth and I had the pleasure of taking most of our kids to see Monsters University at the cinema. The movie was in English with Hebrew subtitles, but the theater was more or less like any American theater. The kids had a great time and all enjoyed the experience.

Every day on the bus we do "interviews" with our young people. The rabbi interviews the student and then at the end, they have the opportunity to ask both the guide and the rabbi a question. It has been fascinating to hear what students have enjoyed, found meaningful, and how their expectations of Israel have compared to the reality. Many weren't sure what they expected Israel to be--desert, Orthodox, etc--but everyone has found something to love. That is what is amazing about this trip: we get to experience everything through the younger generation's eyes and feel that sense of awe and wonder in everything.

Tomorrow is touring in Tel Aviv...one of our tamest days yet!

Rabbi Lapidus

Kid Night Out

While all the parents enjoyed Cafe Kapish or a night off, almost all of the kids headed out to a movie with Rabbi Lapidus and Elizabeth. So much kef (fun)!!

 

Our dig

Almost everyone found something amazing. A great time getting dirty in dirt over 2000 years old.

Masada, Bedouin Hospitality, and Dead Sea

Sunday and Monday

Due to technical difficulties and a very sleepy rabbi, this is a combined blog for the past two days! Sunday morning we awoke still energized from the amazing b'nei mitzvah ceremony the evening before. The youngest kids went to the Biblical Zoo and explored the variety of animals here in the land of Israel (and the variety of ice creams available in the land of Israel). The rest of us went to Yad Vashem, the holocaust memorial and museum in Israel. It was, as it always is, a powerful morning spent wrestling with the questions of theodicy--how do we make sense of God's role in the world, particularly during that period of time? We began at the Children's Memorial to the 1.5 million children who were murdered in the Shoah. Our guide asked us to try to remember one name we heard as we walked through this dark room filled with reflected candles. Almost everyone was able to recite a different name afterwards, continuing the act of memory. We walked at our own pace through the amazing museum--everyone agrees there is always more to see and one could spend several days going through everything at Yad Vashem. We took time to have a brief Yizkor service to take a moment to process all that we had seen and felt. I began this service by explaining there are no clear answers to why, how, and where God was in this. We are left with many questions, a sense of uncertainty, and a desire to make meaning. Thus, everyone was encouraged to take a moment and hug their children (and in some cases, this was a three-generation hug), to recognize that even amidst the uncertainty we can find blessing, we can take pride in our children and that Judaism continues with their generation and beyond. Yad Vashem is a testament to the most evil acts and the most selfless acts which exist side by side. We depart from it with a mission to choose good over evil, knowledge over ignorance, compassion over hatred, and memory over disinterest. 

We said goodbye to Jerusalem and drove towards the Dead Sea. Immediately outside of Jerusalem we find desert (much like just outside of metro Atlanta, we find Georgia!). The landscape changes, everything becomes more isolated, dry, and desolate, with little pockets of vegetation. We went to Ein Gedi and hiked Nahal David, a waterfall/oasis amidst the mountains. You can imagine that in the mid-afternoon heat, the waterfall was an amazing find. Several commented on what a miracle it must have been like to discover water like this in the desert. We continued to our hotel and several went to float in the Dead Sea while the rest went in the pool. It felt exactly like a warm salt bath, but everyone enjoyed the float.

This morning brought us to the top of Masada. It is quite warm, almost unusually so, and thus we discouraged all but the most avid exercisers to take the cable car. We toured the ruins and tried to put ourselves in the position of the Jews on top of Masada. There are many questions about that story (we kept it less graphic for the younger kids), but it is a symbol of Jewish pride and commitment to faith. For a long time, IDF swearing-in ceremonies were held at Masada. 

We hiked down after two long, hot, hours up on the mountain and made our way to Kfar Hanokdim, a Bedouin farm village. There, we enjoyed some Bedouin hospitality (we were taught about Bedouin culture by Mohammed, who has 19 children and 3 wives), a camel ride, and lunch. It was fun but still quite hot...plus there is something about seeing your pita being carried to the kitchen by wheelbarrow that makes you think twice about your lunch. The camels were a hit with the kids, and I am pleased to report the adults have stopped walking funny.

The rest of our day has been spent by the pool and the Dead Sea. Several people went for the mud, and almost everyone has been in the pool for at least a minute (have I mentioned it is hot?). It is a lot of fun to see all of our kids playing and enjoying one another's company--they love havng kids' tables for meals and are really quite bonded. And, the adults are having fun too--everyone always seems to have someone to talk to, and although we are divided into buses, there is clearly a sense of community among everyone. If the goal of this trip is to be bonded to the land of Israel and our Temple family, I think we're succeeding!

Tomorrow we will be doing a dig and then heading to the modern city of Tel Aviv. We are definitely in the homestretch of our trip, but there is a lot to do in these next few days!

Rabbi Lapidus

The Zoo

While the adults (and Jewish adults) went to Yad V'Shem the kids went with Rabbi Berg and Elizabeth to the zoo.

Shabbat in Jerusalem

There is nothing quite like Shabbat in Jerusalem. Last night, we welcomed Shabbat on the HUC campus. All three trips joined together for a service led by Rabbis Berg, Lapidus, Rau, and Cantor Hartman, along with Israeli flutist Matan Klein. Truly a highlight was listening to representatives from each trip share what being in Israel has meant to them. We felt the air cool as the sun went down, heard the siren announcing Shabbat, and then walked along fairly quiet streets to our hotel for Shabbat dinner.

This morning, everyone had a choice of electives--the Christian Quarter, the Old City Ramparts walk, and the Israel museum. I took the group to the Israel Museum. We all enjoyed seeing the history preserved there. While the Dead Sea scrolls are the most famous, the exhibits in the archeology wing and the special exhibition of King Herod were great. I actually had an interesting time in the section about prehistoric Israel and the development before our Jewish story begins. I had to laugh at how little thought I've given to that time period--so much of our focus is on biblical history and later!

After an afternoon of rest, we gathered for the b'nei mitzvah of twelve students at Beit Shmuel, where the headquarters for the World Union for Progressive Judaism is located (and connected to HUC). The view is almost priceless...when the huge crane is moved, it will be even better. There was something very special about watching these students come together. They have a good "group spirit" despite not all studying together. They also have an amazing collection of tallitot (most of them purchased in the Old City on our first day), bright and colorful and each matching the student's personality. We are so proud of each of our students, not just for their Torah reading, but for their commitment to Judaism and Israel. For each of them, it is clear this was a milestone in their lives in amazing ways.

There is a saying "rak b'Yisrael"--only in Israel. This is a useful phrase for many occasions--the maintenance person smoking a cigarette and sitting behind the clergy while we led Shabbat services last night, the group of people who lifted a car over six inches so our buses could get through a narrow street, a random man telling our group "from now on, you will say to-mah-to instead of tomato" (bad case of Jerusalem syndrome). Only in Israel would they put out breakable wine glasses for water and juice as we sat outside during the b'nei mitzvah service. The wind caught the empty glass (as did a few feet) and our group broke five wine glasses during the service and another two immediately after. Each time, we started saying "mazal tov!" and made a few wedding jokes.

As I remarked during the service, the glass breaking has a special significance in a wedding as it reminds us that even in the sweetest of moments, we remember the destruction of the Temple in Jerusalem and the need for healing in our world. Perhaps it is good there weren't plastic cups, because amidst our sweet joy of welcoming new Jewish adults into our community, we heard the shattering of glass and the reminder to remember Jerusalem and the brokenness still in our world. As we look out on the Old City, we think of the healing and peace that is yet to be. We pray that our newest adults will help to make our world more whole, and that all of us will see an Israel which is blessed with peace.

Mazal tov to our b'nei mitzvah and Shavua tov, a wonderful week, to all of you!

Rabbi Lapidus

Shabbat Shalom from Israel

All About Friday

After a free evening to explore Jerusalem restaurants and nightlife, we all gathered to begin our second full day. Friday is a big day in Israel, especially Jerusalem, because we are all anticipating Shabbat in some way. Keep in mind that in Israel, Sunday is a work day. As such, underneath all of our activities was the building anticipation towards this Shabbat, which for many families is their b'nei mitzvah weekend.

We began in the neighborhood of Nachlaot where families grouped together to complete a scavenger hunt of the area. This included a stroll through Machaneh Yehudah shuk (market)--full of beautiful produce, dried goods, fish, candy, baked goods, as well as housewares, sunglasses, and any number of other miscellaneous items. Then, we boarded the buses to Latrun, the armored corps tank museum and memorial. Despite the scorching sun, our kids climbed on an Israeli tank and we learned about the various innovations which have kept IDF soldiers as safe as possible when fighting in these machines. We also visited the Wall of Names, a memorial to the over 4500 members of the armored tank division who have been killed, and watched a short film about the dedication of the soldiers and their families, particularly in the case of injury or death. The tour was led by two young female soldiers, so there was also an opportunity to learn about the Israeli military and particularly how women soldiers participate in the army.

Then, we had the afternoon to prepare for Shabbat, whether by shopping on Ben Yehuda street, eating a leisurely lunch, swimming in the pool, or resting. Without a dinner to prepare, we have some time to relax! Tonight we will head to Hebrew Union College and have a Kabbalat Shabbat service with all three Temple trips led by Rabbi Berg, Cantor Hartman, Rabbi Rau, and myself.

We are excited to, on this Shabbat, be with all of our Temple travelers. Each trip has its own goals, itinerary, and personality. Tonight, we will all be pilgrims, fellow Jews in our shared homeland, starting a day of rest, renewal (and a little touring :-)). There is nothing like Shabbat in Jerusalem, particularly the first time, and we are excited for our families to join with others in experiencing it.

All of us wish you the warmest Shabbat Shalom. May we all be blessed, wherever we are, with Shabbat peace. 

Rabbi Lapidus

Friday, June 21

After a free night in Jerusalem, today we woke up with renewed energy after a very long first day. Our group visited a few of the older communities outside the Old City. A scavenger hunt around these communities led us through the Israeli Shuk- the outdoor market. The Shuk was busy with people preparing for Shabbat. Rows and rows of vendors selling meats, fish, cheeses, candy, and pastries...it is such a typical part of living in Jerusalem, it was so fun to take part.

After the hunt and a little shopping, we headed a bit out of Jerusalem to Laturn, IDF center and a memorial for fallen Israeli soldiers. We got to see (and climb on) a few of the tanks and learn about the struggle Israel has been through to be our Jewish homeland. Then, we headed back for a free afternoon in Jerusalem. Some ended up at Ben Yehuda for more shopping and lunch, others spent the afternoon relaxing by the pool.

Shabbat begins in just a few hours so more to come. We can't wait to celebrate our 12 b'nei mitzvah on this special Shabbat in Israel. 

Our first full day...

Today, our first full day of the trip, was intense and amazing and tiring and wonderful. We began in the City of David and hiked Hezekiah's Tunnel, then went to the Kotel, went through the Kotel Tunnels, toured the Jewish Quarter, had some shopping time, and then visited Yad l'Kashish, a nonprofit organization through which elderly people create Judaica and crafts to sell. As you might imagine, especially with jet lag, this was a tiring day for everyone but quite rewarding.

As Elizabeth said, there are few things more rewarding than helping our families to experience Israel, especially the Kotel. We all know that there are challenges at the Kotel--as Reform Jews, we have a place that is sacred to our people but asks us to set aside much of our authentic practice of Judaism to visit it. There were a lot of questions from our young women, most about to become b'not mitzvah this Shabbat, about why we have to enter through a separate entrance, go to a separate side, and wear clothes below our knees to preserve someone else's definition of modesty. There were good questions from all of our participants about the Kotel's present and future, trying to understand the politics behind this place.

I encouraged everyone to go to the Kotel and touch it for themselves. "Let it speak to you, rather than letting the other people define the experience." How wonderful that several mother-daughter pairs touched the wall together--taking a personally profound moment as a Jew and amplifying it by teaching it to your children. It is a reminder that we have to carve out our own meaning beyond the external requirements that feeling alienating. 

The questions continued all afternoon from our young women. Truly this is the legacy from this Kotel visit for me--watching these almost-Jewish-adults wrestle with the feelings of someone else defining how they should appear, act, and be. I asked them if they ever felt pressure at home to appear a certain way, to follow someone else's opinion of what is best. As you might imagine, we had a lot of food for thought today from these conversations.

Regardless of the struggles (physical and spiritual), or perhaps because of them, today was a special day. As one father said this morning, "I can't explain it, but being in Jerusalem just makes me feel full of light." And a mother said, "I don't know what I find so special about this exactly, but I know it is and can't explain it." We walked through some of the most sacred and iconic places in Israel, and while we can't fully put it into words, it has touched us all.

Rabbi Lapidus

What a day!

Our first day was a full one. Beginning with the City of David, to visiting the Old City and Jewish Quarter, we went though thousands of years of Jewish history. Walking in the footsteps of our ancestors is always a moving experience. Seeing our group experience the Kotel, the Western Wall, for the first time is the most meaningful for me as a chaperone of this trip. Here are some pictures of our day...

Elizabeth Foster

Our First Day

Tonight was the official start of our family trip. While some families came early, by dinner, all of us (almost 70 total) were together to start this amazing journey. Truly, this is more than a vacation, it is a spiritual pilgrimage. You can feel the anticipation--the grandmother who "can't wait to see Israel through my grandchildrens' faces," the mother who "knows my kids will remember this forever," the father who "can't believe my son and I are finally here," and the kids who are asking, "what's in this salad?" and "when are we shopping?" For each generation on this trip, there are hopes, dreams, anxieties, confusion, and above all, a sense that this is the trip of a lifetime. While we hope that everyone will visit Israel again soon, there will never be another first trip, another trip with everyone just this age and just like this.

As I look out from our hotel, I am personally struck by how Israel is kind of like the Jewish holidays--every time, it is different because I am different. Outside my window is the apartment where my now-husband lived during our first year in Israel, when we met. Ten years ago, we could not have even imagined what our lives would be like. And now, I walk these streets as a rabbi, a wife, a mother...a different person in many ways than I was my first time here. 

And while Jerusalem has changed in some ways, it is fundamentally an eternal place. It is a mirror, a place for us to come and reflect, to think back on our first time seeing these stones (for some of our parents, that was when they were teens!) and to realize how we have grown. For those who are here for the first time, there is a sense that they are making history--for themselves and their families. One of our kids commented about the sidewalks, "you can almost skate it's so smooth!" I told her that is because wherever we walk, generations have been there before. On so many levels, that is true. Tomorrow we will be in the City of David, the Kotel, the Jewish Quarter--we will walk our people's history, and in so doing, we will create our own chapter. 

Rabbi Lapidus

We made it!

Off to Jerusalem and our hotel

And we're off...

All of us on the group flight are loaded up...we will see you soon Israel!

Welcome to the blog for The Temple's Family Trip to Israel! We are excited to travel with all of our families  in just over a week. Check back here for updates on the 18th!